The Fading Ink - Konyak Headhunters

Dusk sets in earlier here than the rest of the country . It’s just about 5pm and the sky has turned into a slate. We are in Mon, homeland and territory of the Headhunting Warrior Tribe, The Konyaks. 

Situated in the North East of India, Mon is the northernmost district of Nagaland bordered by Myanmar, Arunachal and Assam. Over the next few days we are to explore remotely located hilltop villages situated in the midst of dense/moderately dense forests. With no communication with the outside world they remained un-discovered until recent times. 

The Konyaks form the largest ethnic tribes of Nagaland. Headhunting was a tradition practiced for many centuries by the Konyaks. Conflicts arising due to land, river, territory, could lead to an inter-tribe warfare and defeating the other side was not final until the enemy was beheaded .

 It was a matter of honor and pride for those involved in beheading the enemy and were highly revered . With every addition of the “head” count, their rank within the tribe also moved up . To return home with the enemy's head was considered a prized trophy and basis folklore, they believed the soul or the spirit resides in the skull and to capture the enemy’s head meant his spirit has been captured and that it would bring prosperity to the villages and the lands would be more fertile.

Everytime a headhunter returned with his trophy, it earned him facial tattoos . This was also to identify and distinguish them as more powerful and revered. The tattooing process was an extremely painful process due to the method involved (and I am not getting into that) ! The process had to be completed over one continuous sitting , morning to night or carried over the following day until completed. 

A chief or “Angh” was designated for every Konyak Village. One who had the highest number of skulls to his credit was entitled for this position. So that the  Chiefs could be easily identified, they wore strings of blue beads on their legs. 

Today , this is the Last Generation of  Tattooed Headhunters Alive. They are all above 85-90 years.

The practice was totally banned only in the late 1960s, yes as recent as a little over 50 years back.  With the arrival and influence of Christian missionaries (starting around mid 19th Century) and the practice being finally banned, the human skulls which earlier adorned  their homes and Morongs (community halls)  had to be buried and now are replaced by the skulls of buffaloes, mithuns, boars and other animals.

The current generation and many young Konyaks have access to education and an option to choose a life in complete contrast to their forefathers. Perhaps it is only a matter of time or few decades, that the origins of a culture and customs of a fierce powerful tribe will gradually fade away under the modern influences.

( For a detailed information about this tour you can connect with  Kipepeo or check the link here). 

Eternal Rome

Looking back and reminiscing my time wandering through ancient history and a city that appears frozen in time. Visually captivating and  simply spectacular . Here are some images from the Eternal City . 

Trevi Fountain - At the centre of the fountain, dominates the statue of Oceanus, who was believed to be a divine personification of the sea. His shell like chariot is being pulled by two sea horses, one wild and one calm, which represents the moods of the sea. The statue of Abundance on the Left and  statue of Health on the right.

Sant I'vo alla Sapienza - Church of Saint Ivo at Rome University (Sapienza) . 
Today the Pallazo della Sapienza  no longer serves as the University but for state archives. 

The Colosseo -  For most part we associate The Colosseum with the brutal Gladiator contests. However, the arena was used for other events as well for entertainment purpose. In the early years the arena floor would be filled with water to stage mock sea battles. The Hypogeum, was a complex network of  underground tunnels , passageways, storage spaces and also served as waiting area for the men and the beasts before they would face each other .

It took only 8 years to complete this massive structure that could accommodate 80000 spectators. There is a separate tour that takes you to the top tier which is otherwise not accessible.Would really recommend it . You get some totally mind-boggling facts and details from 2000 years old history . 

The Roman Forum. During the times of Ancient Rome, the site of Roman Forum served as the centre for all important social, political, religious, civic activities. Several monuments,temples and important buildings constructed then,much of which is in ruins but tremendously preserved.

The Forum from Palatine Hill .
It is one of the most significant and impressive archaeological sites in the world today.

Dome of Santa Maria di Loreto 

The next  three images are from Vittorio Emanuele II Monument . 

Vittorio Emanuele II Monument.  Built in the late 19th century ,a much recent addition to the city and much debated too. Visually a stark contrast to the ancient glories, stands at  Piazza Venezia .  

St.Peters Basilica, the colonnade top  is lined with gigantic statues of saints . The idea was not to hide the view of the Dome, but at the same emphasize the religious significance and the glory .

At the center is the statue of Christ the Redeemer with his apostles on both sides.

Santa Maria Maggiore, exterior of one side

Apse of The Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore

Click here to read about the stunning and magnificent churches of Rome 

Ideally, take a map and wander around . Alternately for the distant sites take the metro operating on lines A (For the Vatican) or B (For the Colosseum). The joy is on stumbling on sites and churches you never planned to, losing your way in the narrow alleys to only find that cafe or art . 

Of Splendour and Antiquity - Churches of Rome

Rome is so immensely fascinating with hundreds of monuments, masterpieces all over,magnificent churches, frescoes,sculptures, art and architecture, it is a dreamworld for anyone who enjoys history, historical sites,can remain immersed in centuries old stories.

While I was in awe of the monuments and the brilliance of centuries old architectural genius, the inconceivable artistry and interiors of the magnificent churches captivated me .
There are close to 1000 (or more) churches in Rome and with 5 days in hand in the eternal city I could only wish for more hours in a day. 

Here  are few images from the churches and Basilicas I was able to visit during my stay and would urge anyone visiting Rome to explore some of the churches.

1. Basilica Di San Pietro in Vaticano / St.Peter's Basilica in the Vatican - The most popular ,the most significant and perhaps the most visited from all over the world. One of the four Major Basilicas in Rome, it took 120 years to build this marvel. Michelangelo,Bernini,Raphael and several other renowned artists from the 16th & 17th century were involved and contributed to the art,design and architecture during it's construction. Sure is one hell of a Masterpiece !

2. Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore - Another Major Basilica out of the four and I was fortunate to be able to visit 2 of them. The original church was built in the 5th century and many additions were made in the later centuries. As per popular legend, Pope Liberius and his wife who vowed to donate all their possessions to Virgin Mary, had prayed to know how they should dispose their wealth. Apparently it snowed on the night of 5th August in the peak of summer and Pope Liberius had the vision that a Basilica be built on the same spot where it snowed and the Basilica stands on the same spot today.
Some very ancient mosaics adorn the arch and the walls, with Gold coffered ceiling. Gian Lorenzo Bernini is buried here and a plaque embedded on the floor marks the spot.

3. Pantheon - Commissioned by Marcus Agrippa, the Pantheon was originally built as a Roman Temple in 29-19 BC. It was completed by Hadrian around 125 AD and was converted to a Church only in the 7th century.One of the best preserved ancient structures in Rome,the sheer scale of this structure,age and the complex history that it has stood through,is intriguing to say the least. As you enter through the door the vast circular space opens up to you. The Oculus, the eye on the Dome of the Pantheon is the only source of light and it's an open circular hole. The columns of the Pantheon were imported from Egypt and the floor is still the original ancient floor.


 

4. Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere - One of the oldest churches in Rome. The original floor plan and structure dates back to 4th century, however most of the present day structure was completed in 12th century . Richly decorated with beautiful mosaics by Cavallini and the facade is equally impressive.

5. Santa Maria Degli e dei Martiri - This is the first church I visited on my first day in Rome. And completely amazed by the grand interiors.

6. Basilica of San Vitale - A minor basilica, built in 400 AD,5th century and then restored several times over the centuries. Slightly modest in scale and interiors when compared to the others,but nonetheless, beautiful and when I visited, the church was all to myself, very quiet with no other visitor. That was special

Few other prominent Basilicas/Churches -

Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano - one of the oldest and a major Basilica

Basilica di San Clemente - a multi tiered church, the present day church is built above ancient churches dating back to 1st and 4th century. An underground tour is also available. 

Classic Tuscany - The rolling hills and dance of the light

Tuscany's classic landscape -  The bucolic rolling hills, the countless tones of green, the quaint hilltop villages, the narrow dirt paths lined with cypress all standing next to each other in precise order and distance, Tuscan Countryside wins the title of  being "Forever Classic ".  

With three seasons in a day, I would say we were fortunate to experience different light conditions and shoot in some magical light & cloud combinations, which were momentary but worth every second. We explored the countrysides for close to six days covering several locations at best possible times of the day. 

(Please click on each image to scroll & for full screen viewing).

The first morning rays which decided to show up  after 2 days, the small window of light did not last beyond 7-8 minutes

The light was flat, but not the scenes !

Some crazy moments in the poppy fields after drowning in the greens!

Pienza town at a distance

A personal favorite, love the light and the dreary grey combination. This light lasted not more than 10 seconds and showed up again but on a different patch .This mood continued for a while .

San Quirico d'Orcia at sunset 

Drama around the Sunset

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