The Fading Ink - Konyak Headhunters

Dusk sets in earlier here than the rest of the country . It’s just about 5pm and the sky has turned into a slate. We are in Mon, homeland and territory of the Headhunting Warrior Tribe, The Konyaks. 

Situated in the North East of India, Mon is the northernmost district of Nagaland bordered by Myanmar, Arunachal and Assam. Over the next few days we are to explore remotely located hilltop villages situated in the midst of dense/moderately dense forests. With no communication with the outside world they remained un-discovered until recent times. 

The Konyaks form the largest ethnic tribes of Nagaland. Headhunting was a tradition practiced for many centuries by the Konyaks. Conflicts arising due to land, river, territory, could lead to an inter-tribe warfare and defeating the other side was not final until the enemy was beheaded .

 It was a matter of honor and pride for those involved in beheading the enemy and were highly revered . With every addition of the “head” count, their rank within the tribe also moved up . To return home with the enemy's head was considered a prized trophy and basis folklore, they believed the soul or the spirit resides in the skull and to capture the enemy’s head meant his spirit has been captured and that it would bring prosperity to the villages and the lands would be more fertile.

Everytime a headhunter returned with his trophy, it earned him facial tattoos . This was also to identify and distinguish them as more powerful and revered. The tattooing process was an extremely painful process due to the method involved (and I am not getting into that) ! The process had to be completed over one continuous sitting , morning to night or carried over the following day until completed. 

A chief or “Angh” was designated for every Konyak Village. One who had the highest number of skulls to his credit was entitled for this position. So that the  Chiefs could be easily identified, they wore strings of blue beads on their legs. 

Today , this is the Last Generation of  Tattooed Headhunters Alive. They are all above 85-90 years.

The practice was totally banned only in the late 1960s, yes as recent as a little over 50 years back.  With the arrival and influence of Christian missionaries (starting around mid 19th Century) and the practice being finally banned, the human skulls which earlier adorned  their homes and Morongs (community halls)  had to be buried and now are replaced by the skulls of buffaloes, mithuns, boars and other animals.

The current generation and many young Konyaks have access to education and an option to choose a life in complete contrast to their forefathers. Perhaps it is only a matter of time or few decades, that the origins of a culture and customs of a fierce powerful tribe will gradually fade away under the modern influences.

( For a detailed information about this tour you can connect with  Kipepeo or check the link here). 

Eternal Rome

Looking back and reminiscing my time wandering through ancient history and a city that appears frozen in time. Visually captivating and  simply spectacular . Here are some images from the Eternal City . 

Trevi Fountain - At the centre of the fountain, dominates the statue of Oceanus, who was believed to be a divine personification of the sea. His shell like chariot is being pulled by two sea horses, one wild and one calm, which represents the moods of the sea. The statue of Abundance on the Left and  statue of Health on the right.

Sant I'vo alla Sapienza - Church of Saint Ivo at Rome University (Sapienza) . 
Today the Pallazo della Sapienza  no longer serves as the University but for state archives. 

The Colosseo -  For most part we associate The Colosseum with the brutal Gladiator contests. However, the arena was used for other events as well for entertainment purpose. In the early years the arena floor would be filled with water to stage mock sea battles. The Hypogeum, was a complex network of  underground tunnels , passageways, storage spaces and also served as waiting area for the men and the beasts before they would face each other .

It took only 8 years to complete this massive structure that could accommodate 80000 spectators. There is a separate tour that takes you to the top tier which is otherwise not accessible.Would really recommend it . You get some totally mind-boggling facts and details from 2000 years old history . 

The Roman Forum. During the times of Ancient Rome, the site of Roman Forum served as the centre for all important social, political, religious, civic activities. Several monuments,temples and important buildings constructed then,much of which is in ruins but tremendously preserved.

The Forum from Palatine Hill .
It is one of the most significant and impressive archaeological sites in the world today.

Dome of Santa Maria di Loreto 

The next  three images are from Vittorio Emanuele II Monument . 

Vittorio Emanuele II Monument.  Built in the late 19th century ,a much recent addition to the city and much debated too. Visually a stark contrast to the ancient glories, stands at  Piazza Venezia .  

St.Peters Basilica, the colonnade top  is lined with gigantic statues of saints . The idea was not to hide the view of the Dome, but at the same emphasize the religious significance and the glory .

At the center is the statue of Christ the Redeemer with his apostles on both sides.

Santa Maria Maggiore, exterior of one side

Apse of The Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore

Click here to read about the stunning and magnificent churches of Rome 

Ideally, take a map and wander around . Alternately for the distant sites take the metro operating on lines A (For the Vatican) or B (For the Colosseum). The joy is on stumbling on sites and churches you never planned to, losing your way in the narrow alleys to only find that cafe or art .